Epiphany by Many Names
As an American expat, Christian holidays in France — and their accompanying traditions almost universally followed — come as a surprise. L’Epiphanie (Epiphany) is one such delightful celebration. When I first saw in boulangeries’ (bakeries’) cases a plentitude of paper crowns sitting on top of what looked like an apple pies, during my first January in France, I was confused. Now, I look forward donning the crown of royalty and eating the galette des rois (cake of kings).
Growing up, I was vaguely aware of this holiday, and knew it as Three Kings Day. But, like most Americans of my upbringing, religious holidays of any persuasion are remarkable mostly for the accompanying sales and days off school/work. And they were few and far between. For the French, by contrast, they are plentiful. And they carry the weight of traditional meaning… Slowing down. Breathing deep. Gathering with family. Drawing around friends. Appreciating the flavors of life. Epiphany is no exception.
Let’s Talk Cake
Epiphany is celebrated with food, of course. Specifically, the galette des rois I mentioned above. The galette des rois has a flaky pastry structure, like that you would associate with mille feuille (a finely layered French pastry, aptly named “1000 pages”). Which means it isn’t at all like an American cake. In fact, it’s best you just eradicate all expectations to eat anything resembling an American cake while living in France. Unless you cave into the super trendy US-inspired menus popping up in the 9éme and 11éme arrondissements (neighborhood zones). But please don’t. You’re in France.
Inside Is Your Prize
The galette des rois inner filling is traditionally frangipane (almond paste). More avant-garde (experimental) chefs will add chocolate or fruit, but I recommend the simple deliciousness of the original recipe. There is usually a slight, syrupy glaze on top of the patterned top layer, that gives the galette its golden glow. And prevents it from falling apart on first cut. This is important.
The honor of cutting the galette des rois on Epiphany is given to the youngest person at the table. After all, they are (presumably) the most innocent. The only way around this is to just get a galette of your own. But beware of the single portion galettes at your neighborhood boulangerie. They most often are missing the most important ingredient you’ll want in your galette: the precious fève (fava bean…kinda).
Fèves and Fava Beans
The fève you’ll find in your galette des rois, if you’re the lucky one to have it in your slice of the cake, makes you royalty for the day. You get to wear the paper crown that comes with your galette, transform into the queen or king of your dreams, and expect good luck.
When the Epiphany tradition was started in the 14th century, this fève was actually a fava bean. Since fava beans take longer to get soft than the length of time it takes to bake a galette, it was easily distinguishable from the frangipane surrounding it. It was cheap. And, if accidentally swallowed, it wouldn’t cause more than a possible bit of indigestion.
Like the majority of traditions, and much of the vocabulary, of France, the fève has kept its name while being updated a bit. Beginning in the 19th century, around the time the US North and South were duking it out, the humble bean was replaced by a choking hazard. It became a porcelain figurine of religious significance — the baby Jesus or Mary or one of the Three Kings.
Nowadays, the adorable, collectible trinket you discover on Epiphany is less likely to fit in with your Christmas creche than with your anime plushies. If you go to any boulangerie worth its salt, your fève will still be porcelain or, perhaps, metal. Avoid the bakeries that have resorted to plastic Disney characters — their bread will most likely be as bad as their choice of charms.
But watch your teeth.